posted by cindylouh on July 25th, 2010 | Holiday Craft Along |

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I hope you are enjoying the sewing edition of the  Bake, Craft & Sew Along! Visit According to Kelly for some fun crafty non-sewing gifts and a A Southern Fairytale for yummy goodies that will be perfect this holiday season.
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Jaime from Prudent Baby has the perfect gift for a man —the boxy man bag! It would make a perfect dopp kit!   Shhhh….but I am going to make these for my boys!  There are tons more projects over at Prudent Baby, so many ideas that would make wonderful handmade gifts.

Jaime writes…

How To Make a Boxy Cosmetic Bag Tutorial

Look! Something you can make for a man!

OK, so this one is for my friend Felice. Not a man. But a woman who enjoys cosmetics and bags and just had a birthday. It has a canvas outside and oil cloth inside for spill containment and easy wiping clean. But oil cloth not required.

I used Echino by Etsuko Furuya, Quiet Ground, Oil Cloth in Natural and the matching canvas, both available at Fabricworm.
Sizing is up to you. My finished boxy make up bag is quite large. You might want to make yours smaller. I don’t know any man that would need this much space for his toiletries.
So my pieces measure:
2 pieces canvas outer 16X14
2 pieces oil cloth lining 16X14
One 16″ zipper
but i suggest, for a more normal size, going 14X12 with a 14″ zipper

1. Cut your fabric.

2. Lay one piece of canvas (or whatever outer fabric you are using) right side up. Lay your zipper facedown with the zip to the left with the top edge of the zipper lined up to the top edge of the fabric. Now lay a lining piece (oil cloth) facedown on top, with top edges lined up, like so:

Sew in place with your zipper foot:

Now fold your pieces wrong sides facing.  Lay your other outside piece right side up. Now lay your zipper and assembled pieces with the outside fabric face down and the lining fabric facing up as pictured. The zipper will be face down with the zip to the right this time. Make sure all the top edges are lined up:

Lay your other piece of oil cloth (lining) right side down on top with the edges aligned.  You can pin at the very edge (pins leave holes in oil cloth but you won’t see these in the final bag):

Sew in place with your zipper foot.

3.  Flip all the pieces around so the zipper is at the top and your oil cloth (lining) pieces are on the outside right side up.  Sew straight across the bottom:

4.  Now bring the seam you just sewed to the center, above the zipper like so. Unzip the zipper halfway so you can turn it inside out when you’re done:

Flatten it out and sew up each side, across the zipper.  Reinforce the zipper edges by sew back and forth over them a few times.  Trim your edges:

4.  Now pouf up your bag, still with the oil cloth to the outside.  Pinch each corner in and pin it.  Determine what height you like and draw straight line at the same measurement across each triangulated corner (i did 5″):

Sew that line with a straight stitch:

Cut off the triangle:

Repeat pn al four corners.  Now your bag looks something like this:

Turn it right side out.  You’re done!

Pretty quick and simple right?

Stuff with sunscreen and the like.  Don’t worry about spills, you can wipe it clean!

Retro Potholder Tutorial

Pholder

This is so super easy. I think even older kids could do it with some help.

Tut1

Supplies

12 patterned circles, mine were 4.5″

8 solid circles

Bias binding, if you cut your own make sure it is cut on the bias.

Twill tape, bias binding, or ribbon for loop

Scrap piece of fabric

Insulbrite or cotton binding

Backing Fabric

Pins

Tut2

Take 4 of the patterned circles and fold them in half. Press.

Tut3

Fold the circles in half again and press.

Tut4

Open the 2nd fold and take the corners and bring them together at the fold. It should look like the above pic.

Tut5

Assemble circles like above with the fold side up. Pin and stitch around the outer edge.

Tut6

Fold and press the solid colored circles. Arrange them fold side down, one to each point on the patterned fabric. I didn’t measure, just eyed it. Pin and sew around the outer edge.

Tut7

Fold and press the remaining patterned circles. Arrange them with the point where the 2 solid fabrics meet. See above. Pin and sew around the edge.

Tut8

Trim the circle and the scrap piece of fabric. Do better than I did, because that is one crazy looking circle. That’s what I get for trying to finish during one nap time. Layer it on top of the insulbrite and backing fabric. Quilt it.

Tut9

Again, trim the circle up better than I did. This looks horrible. All that’s left is to apply binding and loop.

Potholder1

It doesn’t look so wonky here. Naw, It does. Trim better than I did!

http://spunkyjunky.blogspot.com/2011/01/tutorial-tuesday-5-dollar-ribbon.html

For this project you will need:
*slotted tupperware bin (I found mine in the organization/storage section of Walmart).
*1/4 inch dowl rod (can be purchased at any hardware or craft store).

 

 I then inserted each ribbon spool onto the rod. Once I had enough spools on the rod I then stuck each end of rod into the holes on each side of the bin.

 Like so…Isn’t that cool?

Then I pulled each ribbon end through a hole on the front. Now the spools can’t roll and I don’t have to worry about a tangled mess.

Cost:
Bin: $3
dowls: $.12 (clearance)
My mental state: sane and gleeful ;)

 Easy-Peasy Simply-Strippy Fat-Quarter-Friendly Quilt
                                            Finished Size 60x69
  Course Instructor: Lisa Sipes

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http://thatcrazyquiltygirl.blogspot.com

I have made this quilt many different ways, many different sizes and
with many different fabrics. I chose it for this lesson because it
goes together quickly (which makes it an excellent gift), is very
forgiving and is very easy (which makes it perfect, even for
beginners).

Supplies list:
- 15 Fat quarters of assorted colors/prints/print sizes for quilt center
- ½ Yard for First Border
- 1 2/3 Yards large print for Second Border (You may want to have a
little extra for straightening)
- 3 ¾ Yards for Backing
- Batting measuring at least 66x75 for machine quilting
- 5/8 Yard for Binding

1) You will be cutting your Fat Quarter along the length, meaning the
22inch side. Cut each Fat Quarter into strips measuring 5”, 3 ½”
and 2” by approximately 22” long. We aren't so worried about the
length. When you are finished cutting, each of your fat quarters
should look like this (you will have leftovers):

2) When you have cut each of your fat quarters into their strip
pieces, begin piecing. Lay out your pieces in piles by size and
randomly select from each pile. Piece one 2” strip to a 5” strip
starting with your raw edges and ending with your selvedges, press,
and then a 3 ½” strip to the 2” strip, press. Your strip sets should
measure 9 ½” across and look like this:
 (strip sets should measure 9 1/2" across by 22" long)

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3) When all of your strip sets are pieced together, square up the
side with the raw edges, using your seams as your straight line. Once
your raw edge end is squared up, sub-cut your strip sets into (2) 9 ½”
blocks. You will get a total of 6 blocks for every 3 Fat Quarters,
and a total of 30 blocks from your 15 Fat quarters.

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4) Once all of your blocks are ready, it's time to start arranging
them! This is the part that might take the longest, but don't spend
too much time on it. The quilt is supposed to look random but it
turns out the best if you have a good balance of color and prints. The
layout of the quilt is 5 blocks per row, 6 rows down. You are free to
throw the blocks together in any direction you wish, I did use a bit
of a pattern for mine. I will try as best I can to show you in
pictures (and hope you can understand my arrows!).

For your first row, start with placing a block down with your seams
going left to right. Then place another block next to it exactly the
same way. Rotate that block ¼ turn clockwise.

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Repeat for the remaining 3 blocks of the row.

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When you get to the end of the row, place your first block for row two
under the last block in row 1. Rotate that block ¼ turn
counterclockwise.

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Repeat the above steps for each block of each row until you have all
30 of your blocks laid out.
(*Note – I suggest taking a picture of your setting before you begin
sewing the blocks together for two reasons: 1) It will help you to
get a better feel of the color balance {I always notice things in
pictures I don't notice looking straight at it} and 2) It will help
you remember your placement when it comes to sewing everything
together)

5) Sew your blocks into rows, pressing each row in opposite
directions. Row 1, press to the right, row 2, to the left, row 3 to
the right, etc.

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 We lock the seams so that all of our seams meet up and match nicely, like this:

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Once you've pressed all of your rows and your quilt center lays flat,
it's time for your borders!

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(*Note – No matter what any pattern tells you your borders should be
cut to, you should always measure your quilt top rather than using the
pattern measurements. For instructions on how to properly measure,
cut and apply your borders, you can view the tutorial on my blog here:
http://thatcrazyquiltygirl.blogspot.com/2010/05/borders-101-flat-quilt-is-happy-quilt.html)

Your quilt top should measure 45 ½ x 54 ½.

6) For your first border, you should cut 8 strips, 2” x width of
fabric. Piece these strips together by laying one strip out, right
side up, and another strip on top of it at a 90 degree angle, forming
an “L” shape, right side down. Stitch a diagonal line from
intersection to intersection.

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Trim your seam to ½” and press your seam open. Repeat with the
remaining strips.
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7)From these strips, subcut two strips, 2” x 54 ½”, and two strips 2”
x 48 ½”. Attach the 54 ½” strips along the length of the sides, press
then attach the 48 ½” strips along the top and bottom.

8) For outer borders, it is usually best to cut along the lengthwise
grain to avoid piecing them and having to match up the prints. Rather
than cutting your strips along the width of the fabric (usually around
44”) and piecing them together, lay your fabric out flat, cut off the
selvedges and cut your strips lengthwise.
Cut 2 strips, 6 ½” x 57 ½” and 2 strips 6 ½” x 60 ½”. Stitch the 57
½” strips along the length of the sides,press, and then the 60 ½”
strips across the top and bottom.

9) Sandwich, quilt, bind and enjoy (with or without the fat cat)!
If you have any questions or need additional help, you're welcome to contact me!

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Orange Floral Fabric

 

Love Love Love this Window Fabric!!!!

 

Aqua Fabrics

 

 

For Flannel Blanket

 

For Blanket with Ribbon loops

 

 

 

 

Casserole Carrier {Tutorial}

From http://2littlehooligans.blogspot.com

I am really excited to share this with all of you. This is unlike any other casserole carrier you have ever seen. I love that the handles are made of fabric and are not wooden dowels. I think it gives the carrier more stability. I also like that it is lined with Insul-Bright to keep your casserole dishes warm or cold while transporting. With that said, I do not recommend taking dishes directly from the oven and placing into carrier. It may work, but I’m not going to try that one. Just let the dish cool a bit first. The carrier is made of all machine washable fabrics, so wash away. I suggest line drying instead of placing into the dryer. Casserole carrier will hold a 8×12 or 9×13 rectangular pan. (Please forgive me on the pictures. I hope you are all able to see my stitches. I used the darkest fabric I had and used white thread. But I was taking these pictures in the middle of the night and the lighting was not so good.)
Don’t let all the steps scare you. I tried to make this tutorial as easy as possible for everyone to follow along. It really is easy. Your just taking two pieces of fabric and making a cross with them and attaching some handles. I hate to think that my ideas are basic, but they are!

Materials Needed:

*Insul-Bright (1 yard)

*medium or light weight cotton fabric (2 yards of fabric)
*2″ wide Velcro ( 24″ of 2″ wide Velcro)

 

Let’s get started!
We will be cutting materials along the way instead of cutting all of the materials ahead of time.
Cut two pieces of Insul-Bright to the following sizes: 30″ X 15″ and 37″ X 12″
Cut two pieces of fabric slightly larger then the 30″ X 15″ and 37″ X 12″ pieces of Insul-Bright.
You don’t have to be too picky on cutting out the fabric pieces because you will be trimming them later. I just find it quicker to sew the pieces together this way and trim the fabric off later. Plus it saves you time from having to cut out the pieces of fabric to the correct size.

 

Gather the 30″ X 15″ piece of insul-bright and the two pieces of fabric that you cut out to go along with it. Take the two pieces of fabric and lay flat with right sides facing and now place the Insul-Bright on top of the fabric like shown.
Sew all around pinned pieces using the edge of insul-bright as your guide. Leave a 3″ opening for turning right side out.

 

**note: I changed the foot on my machine to H at this point. It is a plastic foot that glides over the Insul-Bright instead of getting caught up on the material. I didn’t do this on my first casserole carrier but did it on this one and it made a huge difference. Change foot back once finished sewing directly on the Insul-Bright.**

 

Trim excess fabric except where the opening is, you want to leave that section a little longer so that when you turn right sides out it will tuck and sew shut nicely. Don’t forget to square off corners. Now pull fabric out through opening.
Iron and push out corners so that they are nicely pointed. Now top stitch around the entire piece of fabric.

 

Repeat with the 37″ x 12″ of Insul-Bright and fabric pieces.
Pieces should look like this now.
Lay the pieces out on top of each other making a cross like pictured below.
Make sure the 37″ X 12″ piece is on top.

 

Line them up straight. The right side of the 37″ x 12″ piece sticks out about 10″.

And measures 9″ up from the bottom.
Mark on the bottom piece of fabric where the top piece of fabric is positioned on it. Make sure you make marks onto the top piece of fabric where the bottom piece is positioned underneath it as well. This doesn’t mean anything now, but it will help in later steps.

Now place a casserole dish in the center of the two pieces and fold closed. Fold the 37″ x 12″ piece close first then fold the 30″ x 15″ piece closed next.

Now you are going to feel for the top of the casserole dish and make a mark on the fabric where the top of the dish is. This mark will tell you where to stop sewing when attaching the handles.
See my little mark? Now take a ruler and extend that mark the entire length of the fabric to show where the top of the casserole dish is. Repeat on the opposite side.

Set aside for now.

Now it is time to make the handles.

 

Cut four pieces of fabric 40″ X 2 1/2″. Cut two pieces of flannel or batting the same size. Layer with the flannel on the bottom and the two pieces of fabric right sides facing on top of the flannel.

 

Sew together on both sides, the entire length of the pieces. Flip right side out, iron and top stitch.

 

Handles should look like this.
Time to attach the handles you just made. Gather the 30″ x 15″ piece, this is the piece you will be attaching the handles to.
Remember the marks you made earlier when you used the casserole dish as a guide? well, this is where those marks you made from the top of the casserole dish come in handy. See them on the picture above?
You will want to line up the handles as pictured above. Make sure they are evenly spaced and about 3″ in from the edge. Make sure the middle of the handles are in the middle of the piece of fabric. You don’t want lop sided handles.


Sew the handles on. Use the top stitch that you did on the handles as a guide, and stitch right on top of those stitches again. Do not sew past the marks on the fabric showing you where the top of your casserole dish will be. You want to make sure you sew straight lines. These will be seen on the bottom of the carrier.

Pieces should look like this now.

Now it is time to attach the two pieces together.Line the pieces up again like you did when you first made the cross. Remember the 37″ X 12″ fabric is on top and the fabric with the handles is on the bottom. Pin in place.

Do not sew directly on the marked lines. Sew in a little about. See where I made my stitches? Again, I wanted to make sure my stitches lined up with the stitches on the bottom piece. These stitches will be seen from the bottom. It will just make it look neater on the bottom of the carrier.

This is what the bottom of the carrier looks like now.

See how nicely the stitches line up on the bottom?

Time to attach the Velcro. Lay carrier flat, place casserole dish inside and pin Velcro in place where you want it.

 

Play with the pieces and see where you would like them most. Here is where I placed mine. I placed it in about 2″ from the edge. I used a 2″ wide Velcro so that I can use this carrier for two sized pans.


Time to finish the handles. I prefer to make little padded sections to attach the handles together.
To make the padded handles, cut four pieces of fabric and flannel (or batting) 6 1/2″ X 3″

Layer them like so, with 1 piece of flannel, 2 pieces of fabric right sides facing, and the last piece of flannel on top.

Sew sides together, leaving ends open.

 

Turn right right side out and iron. Fold ends in about 1/2″ and iron again.

 

 

Slide ends of handles into the middle of the padded handle. Make sure the handles are evenly lined up. You don’t want a lop sided carrier!

 

Pin and sew in place on the ends of padded handle.

The fabrics are pretty thick at this point and I had a hard time sewing through all the layers until I switched needles. I can’t remember the last time I changed my needle, it’s actually kinda embarassing.

Cut two pieces of fabric 5″X 2″
Sew together the two pieces of fabric, right sides facing. Leave a 1 1/2″ opening for turning right side out.
Turn right side out through opening, iron and top stitch.
Sew the Velcro on. Make sure the Velcro is sewn on opposite sides and ends like in the picture above. The hook on the bottom front and the loop on the top back of piece of fabric.

Fold spoon holder in half and mark where the center is. Now measure 1/2″ away from the center on the right and left sides. These marks will be where you want to sew the spoon holder onto the carrier. This way it will keep the spoon from wobbling too much.

You are finished!

**This tutorial is for personal use only! If you are going to link up and use my pictures, please link back to this post and don’t forget to give credit where credit is due! **

I hope you will find some time to sew one up. I would say it takes about 3-4 hours from start to finish to make one of these. You will have a little extra fabric and Insul-Bright left over, so sew up some matching hot pads or oven mitts to go along with the carrier. If you make one using this tutorial, please email me a picture or add it to my flickr group, I would love to see it.
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