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  The Double Oven Mitt {A Tutorial}
via Smashed Peas and Carrots by smashedpeasandcarrots@gmail.com
We’ll call it, ‘The Double Oven Mitt
It’s basically two oven mitts that are connected in the middle, kinda like mittens on a string but cooler and with a greater function.  That middle section plays a key part in protecting your forearms and clothing from larger and sometimes heavier hot pans (yeah, I’m talking to you Lasagna pan!)
Do you have a cook, baker, or chef in your life who might like one too?  Well, then let me show you how to whip one up for them…easy peasy lemon squeezy!
The Double Oven Mitt
2 – 7 1/2 x 31 inch rectangles of your main outer fabric
1 – 7 1/2 x 31 inch pieces of insul-bright
4 – 7 1/2 x 8 pieces of the mitt fabric
1 package of extra wide double fold bias tape
pins
coordinating thread
rotatary cutter, etc, etc.
First, cut mitt shapes out of the ends of both long pieces of fabric and insul-bright.  Cut a mitt shape out of one 8 inch side for the 4 pieces of mitt fabric as well.  I just free-handed this by tracing the outline of an oven mitt and adding a 1/2 inch for a seam allowance!!
Next, grab your bias tape.  It looks like this picture above and is usually found near the zippers in most fabric stores.
Cut 2 pieces of bias tape measuring 8 1/2 inches long.  You want them to be just slightly longer than the width of your oven mitt fabric.
With two of your oven mitt fabrics wrong sides together, fold the ends of your bias tape under and sew it on to the uncut edge of your mitt.  Do this to the other two pieces of mitt fabric as well.  Set aside. 

 

Now, layer your fabrics together like so…outer fabric wrong side up, insul-bright shiny side down, outer fabric right side up, oven mitt right side up at both ends.  
**If you look closely at the insul-bright you will notice one side has a shine to it, kind of like a shiny foil look.  You need to have this side facing down when you are assembling your mitt as this side will be the one closest to the heat source when you are using your double oven mitt.  The shiny side will reflect the heat source and therefore help to protect your hands from getting burned!
Here’s a view of what one end should be looking like…
And here’s a shot of the double oven mitt before bias tape-ing the edges!
Okay, so now grab your bias tape again and start pinning it around your mitt.  I started mine in the center of the mitt, but really you can start yours wherever you would like.  
Pin, pin, pin, lalalalalalalaa!
At the other end of your bias tape go ahead and cut about 5-6 inches off.  Go ahead, you should have some left to use if you are following these dimensions!  
Did you do it?
Go ahead, doooo it!
Now, sew the open length of bias tape together like so.  We are making a little hook to hang our double oven mitt from, neat-o eh?
So, place your hook in the center of one side of your double oven mitt, whichever side you would like to see more if you were to hang it.  I chose the non-mitt side for my hook.  
Pin the hook underneath your pinned bias tape before you start to sew it down.  Then, go ahead and start sewing that bias tape down.  All the way around, being sure to go slow around the curves!!
And there you have it!  
How cool is this…a Double Oven Mitt to keep you nice and safe and free of burns!
Get it?  How COOL is this!?!
Yup, I sure do like the sound of that!
And hopefully my sister will too!
🙂
Happy Making!!

 

 
 

Things you can do from here:

 
 
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This is exactly how to do it if you just want to cut strips of different fabrics for your binding . This is not the same as Bias-cut binding. These photos are really good.

a binding tutorial

This tutorial is for how to make continuous crossgrain binding.

It is how I bind the majority of my quilts.
Part I-How to make the binding strip.
First, measure your quilt. The quilt that I am binding is 57″ x 73″.
Add 57 + 57 + 73 + 73 + 12″ (to account for miters and seams) = 272″.
Divide that by 40″ (a conservative estimate of the usable with of the fabric)= 6.8.
Round up to the nearest whole number, which is 7.
This is the number of binding strips needed.
I cut the strips 2.25″ wide.
If you wish, you can cut them 2.5″ instead.
For this quilt I am making scrappy binding. Since I am using various lengths of several fabrics, I will make sure that once they are all joined together they total at least 272″.

Trim the ends of each strip at a 90 degree angle.
This is a very important step for accuracy.

Place two fabric strips right sides together making a 90 degree angle.


Press down the corner and iron.

Fold fabric back into place. See the crease? That will be your seam line guide.

Pin.
Sew on the crease, back stitching at the beginning and the end of the seams.

Trim corners leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Iron seam, pressing the fabric to one side.

Connect all your strips in the same manner.
Iron in half lengthwise.

And your binding strip is done.
Part II-Attaching the binding to the quilt.
Before I start sewing my binding to the quilt, I like to lay it out and do a test run to make certain that the seams don’t end up on the corners of the quilt, as this makes the mitering of the corners very difficult. I like to start laying out the binding about a quarter of the way down the quilt on the right hand side. (see sketch below.)

this seam is about 6″ from the corner…

and this one is 4″ from the corner…

which is about as close as you want to be…just in case things shift a bit when you are sewing.
pin the beginning of the binding strip to the quilt, and then place a pin about 10″ after that.
using the second pin as your starting point, sew (with a walking foot) the binding strip to the quilt using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

when you are nearing the corner

stop and place a pin 1/4″ from the bottom of the quilt.


continue sewing until you reach the pin


leave the needle down, and pivot your quilt 90 degrees

back stitch to the edge of the quilt and remove from the machine
it should look like this
take the binding strip and flip it up
and fold it down onto itself again

start 1/4″ from the top and continue attaching the binding


it should look like this

repeat for all sides of the quilt
when you get to about 8″ from the starting pin, stop and back stitch
remove the quilt from the machine
measure the binding so it overlaps by 1/2″ and cut

open the binding
pin, right sides together

and sew together with a 1/4″ seam allowance

finger press the seam open

line up the binding to the quilt edge
(you can pin here, if desired)

and sew the seam, joining up where you first started


then I like to trim my edges with pinking shears, near the edge of the fabric
Part III-Hand stitching the binding
hide your knot in the seam
flip the quilt over and tack the binding down (I’ll let the photo explain.)

when you get to the corner


miter it as neatly as possible


make a few extra stitches in the corner

and continue stitching.

shoot.

autumn-blush2

I made this quilt out of a variety of fall colored prints and solids, including several of my favorite Heather Ross prints. I really love the addition of the pale pink prints -the tadpoles on the blush background, as well as a japanese stripe that matches quite perfectly.

And doesn’t it look great in this fall scene? All we need is a few apples, some cider and maybe a pumpkin or two to really complete the look!

autumn-blush-back

The back uses this lovely solid (how many times have I mentioned this color in the last few posts?!) I added in a few larger blocks along the top and bottom edge, and then a few of the smaller blocks near the center.

autumn-blush-quilt-back2

I stippled this one and then bound it in a nice medium brown solid.

autumn-blush4

Final measurement about 36″ x 45″….    

**This is from www.filminthefridge.com. I think this is so pretty, simple, and with no borders. Looks perfect for just covering up with and taking a nap!

Pincushion Tutorial!

This is from: http://paperstringcloth.blogspot.com

I’ve seen a few pincushion tutorials around on the net, and most of the time I skim over them, because pincushions seem so, well, easy…. This one is no exception, but I thought I’d throw my hat in the ring anyway….
After rearranging my studio, and ending up with two workspaces, one for cutting, and one for sewing, the need for an extra pincushion became very clear, and after seeing these two examples by Heather, and Manda, I thought it was time to give it a go. (I probably would have bought one of Manda’s, but by the time I saw the post she had sold out! Gah!)
So here goes:
This pincushion is a simple patchworked number, four squares on each side, with a button detail in the center. Easy Peasy.
Finished Pincushion
Finished Pincushion
First of all, you need to choose some fabric. I ended up with a plain white linen, plus two contrasting cotton fabrics, so the cushion would be different on each side.

Pincushion Tutorial
Then, make yourself a little 2 1/2 inch square template out of cardboard or such. I don’t have a rotary cutter or quilt ruler or any fancy tools, so I trace directly around the template onto the fabric, and then leave a seam allowance around that when cutting. This leaves the traced line as your sewing line, and gets rid of the need for perfect 1/4 inch seams and such. It’s a inperfect art, but there you go.
So trace around your templates, remembering to leave a seam allowance….You’ll need two squares each of the contrasting fabric, and four of the plain.
Pincushion Tutorial
Pincushion Tutorial
Cut out your squares.
Pincushion Tutorial
Stitch the squares together, following the traced stitching line, to make two 5 inch square blocks. Press the seams down flat. Don’t stress too much if your squares don’t meet perfectly in the middle, your button will cover that at the end anyway…
Pincushion Tutorial
Place the two block right sides together, and stitch all the way around the outside, leaving a small hole for turning it round the right way and stuffing. Trim the seams and clip the corners.
Pincushion Tutorial
Turn that sucker inside out (well, the right way round, actually), poke the corners out, and then stuff it quite full with stuffing.
Pincushion Tutorial
You want your pincushion to be quite plump, so overstuff it as much as you can without straining the seams….
Pincushion Tutorial
Sew up the hole you left for the stuffing with tiny little stitches, or some crazy invisible stitching method that you know (and I don’t!)
Now it should look like this:
Pincushion Tutorial
Now for the fun part – finishing!
Choose some buttons that you like to go with the fabrics you’ve chosen.
Pincushion Tutorial
I used waxed linen thread for the button part, because it’s strong, and you’ll be pulling on the thread quite hard, so make sure you use something reasonably strong.
linen thread and beeswax
To start off the stitching for the buttons, thread your needle with a double length of thread and tie a knot at one end. Poke your needle through the centre of your pincushion, making sure it comes out in the centre on the other side.
Pincushion Tutorial
Pull the thread through, but leave a small loop on the front side.
Pincushion Tutorial
Make a small stitch on the reverse side, bringing the needle out in the centre once again. Don’t pull the thread through just yet.
Pincushion Tutorial
Before you pull the thread through, slip your needle through the loop you made, which will stop the knot from slipping through the fabric into the middle of the cushion.
Pincushion Tutorial
Pull the thread tight, which should tighten up the loop you left hanging, and bring the whole centre of the cushion in, giving your cushion that cute shape you want.
DSC_0038.JPG
Now sew your buttons on, stitching right through the centre of your cushion, pulling the thread tight, making the buttons press down in the centre. Use similar sized buttons so you can match up the holes reasonably well on both sides.
When the buttons are secure, bring your thread up to the top, but not through to the other side of the button. Instead, ease the needle out behind the button. This takes a bit of managing, but you should get it without too many dramas.
Pincushion Tutorial
Your thread should now lie behind the top button like this:
Pincushion Tutorial
To make a secure knot, use the thread to make a loop behind the button, like so:
Pincushion Tutorial
Slip the needle through the loop, and tighten well, behind the button. Do a couple of these knots, and then trim off your thread so it hides behind the button.
And voila! You’re done!
Finished Pincushion
For those of you with loads of sewing experience, this is a peice of cake, and nothing you won’t have seen before. But if you’re a beginner, give it a go, especially the button tying technique; this is how I sew on all my buttons, and I haven’t had one fall off yet!
Well, there you have it, my first tutorial. If you’d like to see any of the photos in more detail, just click on one and you’ll be taken to my Flickr page, where you can see them bigger if you like.
I hope you liked it!

 

For Yellow/Orange Wreath

For Black and White Wreath

Clearanced Moda Fabric for Practice

Tea Towel Apron #1

Tea Towel Apron #2

Tea Towel Apron#3

Guterman Thread Set Clearanced at Joanns for $24.